The McKays

For the record, I will confess that I love Italy ….. but I love the food more. I freely admit that I ate my way through Florence, and I’m not going to apologize for it. I probably gained 10 pounds, and I don’t even want to think about the cholesterol issues. I loved every bite, and trust me….after 24 hours in Copenhagen, I want to go back. As we prepare to leave for the port, I wanted to get out one more post. There’s little doubt that we will be back in “wireless no man’s land” once we board this afternoon, so if the posts aren’t showing, you know why.

Meanwhile, just a few of the culinary highlights from Tuscany. We started off with a wine tasting in Siena. Charlie has learned to love (or at least “like”) pasta. We both love seafood, especially calamari and octopus, so we were in heaven when we arrived in Florence.  I would love to elaborate; however, time—nor Charlie—will permit. Here goes…..

Tuscany—it was exactly as I had imagined….vinyards as far as the eye can see.

Our first wine tasting outside Siena….with a little lunch on the side.

Does the man look happy or what?

We also enjoyed a balsamic vinegar tasting. I wish I could take home a barrel of this stuff!

Octopus stew! Yum!!

One of the most wonderful aspects of Florence, actually Italy in general, is the love people have for their pets…particularly dogs. Dogs appear to be welcome everywhere….the streets, the markets, the post office, gelaterias, and even thr Apple Store.  No one seems to be anxious about the health inspector barging in and raising a ruckus about a dog lying behind the lunch counter. We loved it, and I thought I would share a few highlights.

Escaping the heat in a drawer at the Straw Market.

Catching a few zzzzzzs in the shade of a kiosk on a busy street.

It’s hard to believe that we’ve been gone nearly a month! We wrapped up our stay in Florence after a glorious a week.  We loved every moment despite the 100+ degree weather, and I can’t imagine how we could have packed more into the 7 days we were there.  Florence is like a page from a giant art history book. There’s something to love everywhere you turn. The art alone is amazing; however, there’s also the rich history of Florence and Tuscany…..and yes, I learned more about the Medicis this week than I ever really wanted to know.  It’s easy to forget that our own country is still in it’s infancy compared to Europe and Great Britain. Our hotel in Florence, the Il Guelfo Bianco, is housed in a building erected in 1450—-42 years before Columbus discovered the New World.  This is also the city of Michelangelo, Donatello, and Dante. We could have spent days in the Uffizi and Academia Galleries. Then, there is the food and the wine…….that’s another topic in itself.  For now, I will leave you with a few of the iconic views of Florence.

The view from Michelangelo Piazza high above the city.

The Ponte Vecchio was the only one of Florence’s historic bridges to survive the bombings in WWII. It is now lined with shops–especially jewelry shops.

A replica of Michelangelo’s “David” in Plazza della Signoria outside the Vecchio Museum. The original is now in the Academia Museum.

The Florence Cathedral at night with Giotto’s Belltower to the right.

Donatello’s “David” in The Museo Bargella–the National Museum– in Florence.

Crowd gathering outside the Uffizi Museum.

Another version of The Pieta by Michelangelo. The most memorable is in St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. This one is in the Cathedral Museum in Florence.

As promised, I’m playing catch up from the last week of our Royal Clipper cruise.  One week ago today, June 21, we anchored off the coast of Lerici, Italy.  We caught an early morning ferry boat to the nearby town of Portovenere, and from there, we began our tour of Cinque Terre. Cinque Terre (The Five Lands) is a six mile area along the coast beginning near a rocky point in Riomggiore and extending to Monterosso. The area is dotted with small, isolated villages that date back several centuries.  Some are accessible by car or passenger train; however, others remain isolated and can be reached only by jeep or on foot. One village is situated high above the coast, A stairway of 1,500 steps will take you to the top if you’re motivated. The area is well preserved and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We were able to visit four of the villages during our excursion. Our fist stop in Riomaggiore led us to a walkway high above the rock coast. The path, known as Via dell’Amore is dedicated to lovers. I would have felt more romantic had I not had to battle the oncoming traffic of the other tour groups walking down from the next village of Manarola. Nevertheless, the scenery was breathtaking, and in all honesty, the walk was my favorite part of the day.  From Manarola, we caught another ferry that took us to the next hamlet, Vernazza. Vernazza was heavily damaged during a flood in October, so our visit there was brief as many of the shops and sites remain closed. Our last stop in Monterosso allowed us a couple of hours to wander about and enjoy lunch before heading back to Portovenere.   There, we stumbled across the Lord Byron Bar where we enjoyed a cold beverage, and Charlie made a new friend…..and yes, she’s pretty.

Porto Venere…our first stop on our way to Cinque Terre.

Charlie along the harbor in the village of Riomaggiore.

The cliffs of Riomaggiore. You can see the walkway above that leads to the next village, Manarola.

We enjoyed a brief stop in the village of Vernazza. The village was heavily damaged by floods several months ago.

A medeival fortress atop a cliff in Portovenere.

This little lady is the daughter of the proprietor. She wandered over and was very curious about Charlie and his camera.

Ciao, Baby

Well, to be honest, I have no excuse. Charlie’s computer was repaired in Nice last week. We enjoyed the last week of the cruise, and we bid a sad farewell to the Royal Clipper on Saturday morning. We are currently in Florence with two functioning laptops, three cameras, and awesome wireless. So why haven’t I posted in days? Pure laziness. We have been on what Charlie refers to as a “forced march” since our arrival Saturday afternoon. We have enjoyed every minute, but by the time we return to our hotel, I’m too exhausted to speak, much less write, in complete sentences.  I thought I would take this opportunity to give the Cliff’s Notes version of the last week. Let’s begin with Tuesday, June 19th……

We docked in Nice around noon. By 1pm we walked the gangway pulling my rolling carry on bag bearing two laptops, two iPads, two external hard drives, and all the necessary power cords. With our friends Garry and JoAnn along for moral support, we hailed a cab and headed for the Apple Store. There we met our new best friend Boris, who after taking a quick look at Charlie’s computer, determined that we had a bad RAM memory chip. Once replaced, the computer, and Charlie, were good as new. Meet Boris…..we love him.

Ladies, if you’re ever in Nice with a man who is going through “cyberwithdrawal,” Boris is your man! Boris was kind enough to let us update all our software and edit a few photos to make sure all was well. By the time we managed to hail another cab (not as easy as you’d think) we hit evening rush hour in Nice. We also had the most manic cab driver imaginable. Garry, riding shotgun, “feigned sleep” in order to avoid conversation with the driver who was shouting at other drivers in French and gesturing wildly…..Admittedly, it was upsetting to see that tour bus blow a red light, but our driver was literally trying to chase down the bus with a subcompact. Mercifully, we made it back to the port alive, and, in time to board the ship before we sailed for Portofino, Italy.

Wednesday, June 20 ….. Portofino….My favorite port in the world. We were there for just a few hours during our Royal Clipper cruise in 2009, but we loved every minute and we excited to learn that Portofino was on this year’s itinerary. Portofino is a tiny hamlet that caters to the rich and “wanabe rich.”  The little harbor is lined with fabulous yachts, and the cobble stone streets are lined with designer shops and outdoor cafes. During our first visit in 2009, Charlie spotted a gorgeous dress as we window shopped. “Go in and try it on, Honey.” Then we looked at the price tag (discretely placed on the floor beneath the dress)….1, 800 Euros.  The dress stayed in Portofino, but we did manage to find a lovely jewelry store……and that’s another story. When we stepped off the tender last week, we were relieved to find that little has changed in Portofino. I think that same dress is still in the window, and the jewelry store was right across the street. Charlie indulged my urge to shop for a couple of hours before we found a table in the shade. According to plan, we enjoyed the rest of the afternoon with lunch, people-watching, and ogling the yachts that moved in and out of the harbor.  It was the day we had hoped for…..and yes, Charlie, I want to go back:-)

Portofino as you enter the harbor.

Poncho Villa takes on Portofino. Actually, we discovered a beautiful little garden filled with contemporary sculpture. We had missed this one on our last visit.

Merecats now keep watch over the harbor. This was about the only change we noticed since 2009. Not sure why they were chosen to watch over the harbor, but you have to smile when you step off the boat and see them above.

I’m going to close with Portofino; however, I hope to follow up later today with our last two visits,  Cinque Terre and Corsica.  Right now, it’s time for breakfast. I wouldn’t want to break my current streak of four meals a day……….

Note: This one is posting late due to painfully slow wireless connection on our ship. Charlie and I were able to find an Apple Store upon arrival in Nice this afternoon. His computer is being repaired as I type this.  I’m taking full advantage of there awesome wireless:-) We have four  more days until we arrive in Florence.  I will try to post again, but don’t be surprised if we’re quiet for a while.

Thursday morning, we were once again blessed with a late morning departure from the Royal Clipper which came alongside the pier in Palermo around 10 am . Palermo is known for beautiful, sunny skies. To quote our local guide, Pinot, “Apollo did not disappoint us today.” Despite the bright sunshine, the gentle breeze from the ocean kept the temperature moderate. After a drive through the Old City–including a visit to the bustling market, we traveled into the mountains to the little town of Monreale. There we visited the Monreale Cathedral where we were dazzled by the beautiful gold mosaics that lined the interior. We returned to Palermo this afternoon and spent the remainder of the day just walking the streets and taking in the sights.  We took a break at a sidewalk cafe and enjoyed some of the local cuisine and wine before eventually making our way back to the ship around 5pm.  We sailed from Palermo late Thursday night, and we are now sailing  northeast toward Sardinia and Corsica.

Yesterday was our second, and last, sea day for this cruise. I believe we made the most of it….sleeping late, enjoying a leisurely breakfast, and just enjoying the the relaxed pace of a day at sea. I actually read an entire book, and Charlie had a ball taking photos of the boat under full sail. Today we are anchored off the coast of Sardinia and preparing to catch the tender boat later this morning. We are looking forward to a driving tour of Costa Smeralda, a popular resort area for the rich and famous.   As usual, we are also looking forward to the opportunity to sample more local cuisine and “beverages.”   More to follow. Meanwhile, I’ll leave you with a few highlights from Palermo and our day at sea.

Capers grow wild here.

The morning market in Palermo…..our favorite foods…octopus and calamari!

First of all, just let me vent for a moment…..If this ship had internet service that would marginally compare with the beauty of this country, I could post a blog entry in a millisecond. Sadly, this is not the case.  As we say in the South, we were “cookin’ with gas” as we approached the port this morning. I was thrilled as I was not able to get yesterday’s post out before the wireless collapsed. Just as I logged on this morning, we pulled alongside, and “wham” I lost the connection. Mind you, without a working connection, we cannot log off. Thus, our wireless credits are ticking off by the second. By my estimation, I lost about 20 minutes just trying to log out. Charlie has decided that the crummy wireless service on this boat is a major revenue maker…..second only to the bar.

Now that I have that off my chest………

Our excursion today took us to the Valley of the Temples, a collection of ancient Greek temples dating back to 581 BC. The temples lie in the valley of the Agrigento River (now dry) and adjacent to the beautiful harbor of Porto Empedocle. This was a vital trade center during the 5th century. Following a 15 minute bus ride, we spent two and half hours walking amid the ruins, many of which are remarkably well preserved. It always amazes me that such immense structures could be erected during ancient times. Even more amazing is the fact that they still stand today despite the elements, earthquakes, etc.

We also love the contrast between the ancient ruins and the georgeous trees and flowers that flourish in this region. As you will see in the photos that follow, the vegetation lends a gorgeous splash of color to the sand, stone, and marble.  Mother Nature is my favorite interior decorator!

Enjoy!

The Temple of Concordia

“Baby” olives….the harvest is a few months away, but they’re tempting just the same!

The Temple of Hercules.

Charlie with the Temple of Jupiter in the background.

Pink and white oleander…..they smell heavenly.

The flowering cactus is everywhere and lends so much color to the sand and stone landscape.

We awoke Tuesday morning to find the Royal Clipper still sailing toward the coast of Malta. It’s always nice to have a couple of quiet hours before the mad rush to breakfast.  We were especially happy to find that the Clipper would be coming alongside the pier, and therefore, we didn’t have to take a tender boat to shore. It’s not easy to board a little boat that is bouncing in opposition to the ship while, at the same time, folding yourself up like a lawn chair to squeeze through the door.  I have recurring nightmares about falling in while attempting to board, so my anxiety level is soaring while we wait in line to board. Walking the gangway is just a happy way to start a day ashore.

We entered the harbor around 8:30 am, and by 9 am we were alongside the dock in the capital city of Valleta and ready to disembark. The tiny island of Malta lies southwest of Sicily. The first inhabitants arrived from Sicily during the Stone Age.  It was later settled by the Pheonicians in  800 BC and later became part of the Roman empire. Over the course of history, Malta has been conquered by the Arabs, , the Normans, the Turks,  French, and most recently, the British in 1921.  Malta was nearly devastated during heavy bombing raids in WWII, and King George VI conferred the cross of St. George on the Maltese people for the courage they demonstrated during the war. In 1964, Malta became a The Republic of Malta, and the British left Malta completely  in 1979. On May 1, 2004, The Republic of Malta became part of the European Union.

The culture is an interesting mix of Arabic, French, and British.  Maltese is the one of  the oldest languages in the world, we’re told, with it’s roots in Aramaic. Most of the Maltese are bilingual as both Maltese and English are compulsory in the schools. More than 80% of the residents here speak English, and our US dollars are welcome–both making our day in Valletta more pleasant.  Malta’s primary industry is tourism; however, we were fortunate to be one of only two ships in port. We were told that four ships are expected Wednesday. A single large cruise ship can pack the streets of such a small city within minutes, so we were fortunate to be able to enjoy the city in relative peace and quiet.

Our morning tour took us to “Six Must See Sights” of Malta including the picturesque fishing village of Marsaxlokk,  the ancient capital city of Midina, the Blue Grotto, and St. Paul’s Islands.  St. Paul was shipwrecked here in 60 AD as described in Acts.  I have included a few photos from our day here. We loved this small island

The view of Valletta as we entered the harbor.

The Blue Grotto

The Great Seige Bell, commemorating the 7000 servicement and civilians who died in defense of Malta in WWII.

Hello from the Mediterranean. Yesterday, we enjoyed a fabulous sea day, even by Charlie’s standards. No matter how many times we sail, the first 24 hours are all about balance. We set sail Saturday in rough, choppy waters; however,  by 11 pm, the sea had calmed, and we enjoyed a peaceful night’s sleep with no more than the gentle rocking motion of the ship. As is often the case, our first day at sea revolved around “housekeeping” — i.e.  getting the cabin organized for the next two weeks, securing our wireless passwords, and generally getting our sea legs. We also had the opportunity to get to know some of our fellow passengers on the cruise, and we were delighted to see a few familiar faces. The end of the day delivered the best surprise of all. We learned that the Royal Clipper would sail within a few miles of Stromboli which is home to an active volcano. At approximately 11:30 pm, we witnessed an incredible sight…..giant red flumes of molten lava shooting high in the air over the mountain. We watched the show until sometime after midnight when we finally sailed out of view. Yes, it made for a short night, but it was well worth the sacrifice. It is unlikely, however, that we will be present for tonight’s midnight buffet.

Today, Monday, we anchored off the coast of Sicily near the port city of Giardini Naxos We caught a taxi just few steps from the dock and our driver, Alfredo, drove us up the steep, winding road to Taormina. We were in Naxos one year ago, but we had to make the choice between  touring Mt. Etna or Taormina. We opted for Mt. Etna, and we had no regrets. It was an awesome experience. This year, however, we were determined to see Taormina, a charming little town hovering high above the port. We had been warned about the throngs of tourists, however, we arrived early and were able to enjoy many of the sights without fighting the crowds. This is truly one of the most beautiful cities we have seen in the Mediterranean. Around every corner you will find a view worthy of a post card. One of the highlights of the day was our visit to an ancient Greek theatre. Peering though one of the arch doorways, we caught a spectacular view of Mount Etna which is billowing steam and ash even today.  After a busy morning of exploring, we made our way to a restaurant, La Dracena, which  had been highly recommended by Charlie’s pal, Tony Greco. Unfortunately, they are closed on Monday.(This will no doubt, require a return visit to this gorgeous town, and I’ve already identified the perfect hotel.) Undaunted, we were able to find another restaurant next door, and we enjoyed a delightful meal in a cool, shaded courtyard.  After a leisurely walk back through the main street, we made our way back to the Royal Clipper.  We will set sail for Valetta, Malta in about an hour.  Meanwhile, here are a few highlights from today.

Entering the city gates of Taormina.

Charlie shot this great picture of Mt. Etna through the arched doorway of the ancient Greek theatre.

The narrow streets of Taormina are lined with with beautiful trees and flowers.

Lunch at Rossipepperocini…..not La Dracena, but still yummy.

After five days we bid a wistful goodbye to Rome and Fiumicino. The Hotel Seccy was kind enough to allow us a late checkout which, in turn, allowed us to sleep in this morning. I finally opened the curtains just before 9am……It was not a pretty sight.. For the first time since our arrival, we awoke to overcast skies and rain. It was a great excuse to kick back and actually savor the cappuccino and pack up for our 40 minute trip to the port city of Civitavecchia. We arrived at the port late this afternoon.  Embarkation was a breeze for this cruise. The Royal Clipper is a  439-foot, five-mast sailing vessel with a compliment of 233 passengers and crew. The mast height measures 197 feet with 42 sails. It is a sight to behold when all the sails unfurled. This will be our third cruise on the ship, and we’e been looking forward to our return since last year’s cruise. We set sail this evening around 8 pm, and we are heading for Naxos, Sicily. Tomorrow is one of the two “sea days” for this cruise. I treasure these days, and I could happily spend all 14 days just enjoying the experience of sailing the open sea, enjoying the sun, and chatting with our fellow shipmates.  Charlie, on the other hand, has mapped out a plan to keep himself occupied every second of the day as he finds sea days about as exciting as watching paint dry. He was happy to recall that the ship has a small workout facility, and he actually mumbled something about working out at 5:30 tomorrow morning. Wrong…..so wrong……….

The Royal Clipper